Finding the right 240z suspension kit is usually the first major hurdle you'll face when trying to modernize a classic Datsun. Let's be honest, as much as we love the S30 chassis, driving a stock one today feels a bit like navigating a motorized sofa. After fifty years, those original factory bushings have likely turned into something resembling beef jerky, and the struts probably have the damping consistency of a wet noodle. If you want your Z to handle the way it looks—sharp, aggressive, and iconic—you've got to address the footwork.
The problem is that the market for these cars has exploded lately. You can spend five hundred bucks on a set of "eBay specials" or five thousand on a full race-spec setup. Somewhere in the middle is the sweet spot for most of us who just want to enjoy a canyon road on a Sunday morning without feeling like the car is trying to swap ends every time we hit a pebble.
Why the stock setup usually has to go
Before you go dropping cash on a 240z suspension kit, it's worth looking at what you're starting with. The 240z was revolutionary for its time, featuring independent suspension all around, which was a big deal in 1970. However, the MacPherson strut design used back then has some quirks. The biggest one is that the spindle—the part the wheel actually bolts to—is welded directly to the strut housing.
This makes things a little complicated. Unlike a modern Honda or a Miata where you just unbolt a few things and swap in a coilover, the S30 requires a bit more "surgery." Most high-end kits involve cutting the original strut tubes and welding on new threaded sleeves. It's a bit of a commitment, but it's the only real way to get the car sitting right while maintaining enough suspension travel to keep your spine intact.
Coilovers vs. the classic spring and strut combo
This is the big debate in the Datsun community. Do you go full coilover, or do you stick with a more traditional lowering spring and shock combo?
If you're looking for a "set it and forget it" vibe, a good pair of lowering springs (like Eibach or Vogtland) paired with some Tokico or Koni shocks used to be the gold standard. It's simple, it's relatively cheap, and it keeps the car feeling like a classic. The downside? You're stuck with whatever height the springs give you. If the rear sits a half-inch lower than the front, you just have to live with it. Plus, finding good performance shocks for the 240z has become surprisingly difficult lately as some of the big names have discontinued their S30 lines.
On the flip side, a modern 240z suspension kit that features full coilovers gives you total control. You can corner balance the car, dial in the exact ride height you want, and adjust the stiffness of the ride with a few clicks of a knob. Brands like BC Racing, Techno Toy Tuning (T3), and Ground Control have really mastered this. Yes, it's more expensive, and yes, you'll probably need a friend who knows how to weld, but the difference in handling is night and day. It turns the Z from a cruiser into a precision instrument.
Don't forget about the bushings
I see people do this all the time: they spend two grand on a fancy 240z suspension kit and then bolt it onto fifty-year-old rubber bushings. It's a waste of money. If your bushings are shot, your alignment will never stay true, and the car will still feel "vague" no matter how stiff your springs are.
You basically have two choices here: rubber or polyurethane. * Rubber is great if you want to keep the car quiet and comfortable. It absorbs road noise and vibrations. The catch? Finding brand-new OEM rubber for a 240z is getting harder and more expensive. * Polyurethane (like the sets from Energy Suspension) is much easier to find and install. It stiffens everything up and makes the steering feel much more direct. The trade-off is the "squeak." If you don't grease them properly during installation, your car will sound like a haunted house every time you go over a speed bump. Also, the ride will be noticeably harsher.
Dealing with the "spindle pin" nightmare
If you're going to install a 240z suspension kit, we need to have a serious talk about the rear spindle pins. If you know, you know. If you don't, prepare yourself. These are the long steel pins that hold the rear control arms to the hub. Over decades, they tend to seize inside the aluminum housing.
Many a weekend project has been derailed by a stuck spindle pin. I've seen people use 20-ton presses, torches, and a lot of swearing to get them out. When you're ordering your suspension parts, just do yourself a favor and order a new set of pins and nuts. Don't try to save the old ones. Just cut them out and start fresh. Your sanity is worth the extra fifty bucks.
Why geometry matters more than "low"
We all want that perfect "staggered" look with the tires tucked just slightly under the fenders. But with a 240z, if you go too low without the right supporting mods, you'll ruin the handling.
Because of the MacPherson strut design, lowering the car changes the angle of the control arms. If they start pointing upward toward the wheel, your roll center goes all out of whack. The car will actually want to lean more in corners despite having stiffer springs.
To fix this, most people adding a 240z suspension kit also pick up a pair of Roll Center Adjusters (RCAs). These are basically spacers that sit between the bottom of the strut and the steering knuckle. They help bring the control arm back to a flatter angle, which keeps the tires planted. If you're planning on dropping the car more than an inch, these aren't really optional—they're a necessity.
Steering and tie rods
While you're under there, take a look at your tie rod ends and the steering rack bushings. The 240z has legendary steering feel—it's manual, communicative, and heavy in all the right ways. But if there's play in the system, it just feels sloppy.
If you're upgrading to a high-end 240z suspension kit, consider adding some adjustable tension rods. The factory ones are prone to bending under heavy braking, and they don't allow for much adjustment. New rods allow you to dial in your caster, which helps the car track straight at high speeds and improves the "weight" of the steering when you're carving through a turn.
Is it worth doing it yourself?
If you have a decent set of tools and a weekend or two, you can definitely handle a 240z suspension kit install. The S30 is a very straightforward car to work on. There aren't any complicated electronics or crazy hydraulic systems to worry about. It's just nuts and bolts.
However, as I mentioned earlier, the welding part of a coilover conversion is where most people get stuck. If you aren't a confident welder, don't practice on your suspension. Take the strut housings and your new kit to a local machine shop. They can do the cuts and the TIG welding for a couple hundred bucks, and you'll have the peace of mind knowing your front wheel isn't going to snap off at 70 mph.
Final thoughts on picking your kit
At the end of the day, the best 240z suspension kit is the one that matches how you actually use the car. If you're just cruising to car shows and doing the occasional spirited drive, you don't need a $3,000 triple-adjustable external reservoir setup. You'll just end up with a car that's too stiff to enjoy on real-world roads.
But if you're planning on hitting the track or you really want that "built" look, don't cheap out. The S30 chassis rewards good suspension more than almost any other mod you can do. You can have all the horsepower in the world, but if you can't put it to the ground through a well-sorted corner, you're missing out on what makes the 240z so special in the first place.
Take your time, replace your bushings while you're in there, and for the love of everything, watch out for those spindle pins. Once it's all dialed in, you'll realize why people have been obsessed with these cars for over half a century. It's not just about the look; it's about that raw, mechanical connection to the road.